Day 24

Khiva, Uzbekistan

Khiva, Uzbekistan

Khiva

Khiva is located in a sliver of fertile land between two deserts. There is evidence of ancient humans here. It is said to have been founded by Shem (son of Noah). Caravans stopped here because it was an oasis. Legend has it the name comes from the exclamation “keeey vaaaa!” which means ‘sweet and tasty water’.

They do not have earthquakes here. The city has turned over 5 times from being conquered. Much of what we see is from a renovation undertaken by the Soviets between 1975 and 1990. It is now an “open sky museum city” per UNESCO.

I said, “I want this in my home!” Someone replied, “Imagine the dusting you would have to do!”

Men drinking tea together in their retirement years

The men in costume put on a production showing how dignitaries were greeted. The women on the bench were making the slippers – in the next photo – for sale. A reception hall like this has one wall higher than the others to keep the throne shaded from the sun. We are told facing north is 10 degrees cooler. The real throne is now in Moscow. The doors behind the throne are of 3 different heights – ordinary men, VIPs, and the king.

To the sides are the homes of the prime minister and the treasurer. The harem is behind the mint (where currency was printed). Boys over age 9 would go through the passage to learn from the Imam.

In the courtyard was a raised circular platform. Whereas someone from Europe would be greeted in the open audience room, he showed respect to the representative of his nomadic subjects by meeting them inside the yurt. The royal family has their private summer and winter mosque.

If you look at the blue and white tile long enough you start to appreciate the variety of pattern. You can see the restoration work, and how the tiles are nailed to the wall.

The local way to make a snapping sound with your fingers

Textile master

More than 40 types of craft are created in the city. The books our local guide is holding contain photos and interviews with the carpet master who met with us. The lady waving to us in purple is his wife. She does the needlework. These carpets are silk. Unfortunately for me, that meant he could not come down in price.