Khujand, Tajikistan
Around Town
First off, here is a screenshot from my maps. Any history buff will appreciate a stay at the Sogdian Hotel on the banks of the Syr Darya.
I love translations that don’t quite hit the mark. Here’s the samovar from breakfast
Magdalena Church
The Tsars supported the Russian Orthodox Church. This church was built on the site of the slaughter of believers by the Soviets. The priest was sent here (from Russia) for about 1000 parishioners. Local people say the tragedy of WWII was due to atheism which is why the USSR let churches reopen after the war.
Central Mosque
Outside the mosque ladies were selling bags of bird seed. Our guide explained that “to feed birds is to care for G-d’s creatures, therefore G-d will care for you.” We were told the mosque was 120 years old and 10,000 people fit inside.
Our guide explained, “Russians did not know who were the descendants of Persian kings and scholars. Most were killed. A lot was lost under the Tsar and Soviet rule.”
Thursday Bazaar
I had hoped to pick up something at the gold market, but the prices were quite “dear” as the Australians would say.
Lenin Statue
In Soviet times Khujand was called Leninabad and Dushanbe was called Stalinabad. When the USSR collapsed the Lenin statue was replaced with the Iranian-Tajik king statue. Years later the Lenin statue was put back up in this less central location past the war memorial.
“The Mujahideen of Afghanistan are Tajik. First they resisted the British, then the Soviets, then the Americans. They are the defender of the land.”
“Lenin was created by Germany. He understood economics and socialism don’t work together, but he died. Then Stalin was a dictator.”
“What do we think of the Soviet period? Not bad, not good, just history.” – snippets from our local guide
