Dushanbe, Tajikistan
Hit Song
Let’s set the mood with this hit song that was playing everywhere: Tojikona I’ll wait. It’s worth the listen.
Environs
Now please appreciate my space capsule shower and offer of caviar for breakfast. Wow. Appreciate the VERY long hair that is in vogue for women here. See how enormous their gutters are? Lots and lots of building going on. Unfortunately had to listen to it all night with an open window since my AC didn’t work. Likely a fond farewell to the Khrushchevka apartments of yesteryear. Did you know South Korea is building a metro in Dushabne?
Hjsor Fortress
From the 1860s to 1920s Hissar was the capital of Eastern Bukhara. Today it is 24 km west of the capital of the Republic of Tajikistan, Dushanbe. Past rulers of this valley include: Achaemenid Empire, Greco-Bactrian Kingdom, Kushan Empire, Hephthalite Empire, Sassanid Empire, Umayyad Caliphate, Abbasid Caliphate, Samanid Empire, Kara-Khanid Khanate, Ghaznavid Empire, Khwarazmian Empire, Chagatai Khanate, Timurid Empire, Shaybanids, Ashtarkhanids, and the Emirate of Bukhara.
Beautiful artisan work on display at the old madrassa (16th century) including pottery, textiles, and equestrian gear. Climbed the ramp to the king’s residence, but in this heat it literally was too much for some tourists. I witnessed a Malaysian man perish. In happier news, we saw a lovely bridal party.
The Emirate of Bukhara included northern Afghanistan. The gate is from the 13th Century, the rest is reconstruction. Note the “hotel” for silk road traders.
Lunch
Ate at Cafe Moose (recommend). In this part of the world it is normal for them to supply you with disposable gloves for food you eat with your hands. That’s quite clever. We should do that.
Ethnographic Museum
Navruz Palace
Exterior
Interior. A fascinating mix of craftsmanship, glitter, LED lights, and tradition. There are 7 halls altogether. Notice the Shanghai Economic Summit room.
Fashion House
As far as I can tell, when we were at the cafe for lunch our guide met a woman who had a connection to get us in to meet Khurshed Sattorov. He kindly brought us in and told us all about his work. Khurshed himself designs the fabrics and cuts the patterns. Everything is made by hand. He has 10 people working for him in his studio and 300 more all over Tajikistan. He has had 10 magazine shows in Paris and been to New York Fashion Week many times.
We are told a 3,000-6,000 year old artifact was found of a Tajik woman’s clothing. Haute Couture is 1000 years old. To make garments symmetric they knew mathematics. Silk production is slowly increasing in the villages of Tajikistan.
Before Islam paintings and patterns were of the tree of happiness, animals, man and woman. After Islam instead became flowers. The phoenix is the bird of happiness. Red symbolizes fire which can get rid of bad spirits. The triangle is a talisman against the Evil Eye.
Told the story of the bride creating a needlework which has the earth, planets and trees. On her wedding night she gives it to the groom to cover his red cheeks when he sees her naked for the first time. As a married man he uses the cloth as a belt where he carries things like bread and water.
The Evening
People of all ages are outside and all around the city center at night. Without the blazing sun it is very pleasant. LED colored lights make for a colorful scene. The giant platter is the best way for a group to share a meal at a restaurant. Bringing individual plates from the kitchen does not work well for restaurants here.
